So you just bought a used
BMW K-Series Motorcycle...
A Work In Progress
by Ted Verrill Congratulations,
you have just bought one of the finest motorcycles ever made. I put this together
to help you with the big question, "so what now?" There
are a few things you should do immediately upon buying a bike, most notably add
it to your insurance immediately after signing the bill of sale and handing
over your cash. When you get it home, wash it. Believe it or not, the only way
to really get to know a bike intimately is to spend an hour or two with a sponge
and an old toothbrush really brightening it up (you'll also probably find lots
of little things you missed before -- Doh!) Anyway, after you finish washing it,
give it a firm maintenance foundation. What's that? 1.
Maintenance Foundation The BMW
K-Series bikes are a joy to work on, and the regular maintenance items are quite
easy to perform. With regular maintenance, they will last several hundred thousand
miles. Make sure to check out the
Internet BMW Riders tech section for K-Bikes, there is simply no better resource
on the Internet for guidance on how to fix and maintain your K-bike. When
buying a used K Bike, it is important to establish a maintenance foundation. Fluids,
lubes and filters not only degrade with miles, they degrade with time. In order
to ensure that your bike is in top running condition right off the bat and to
start to get to know your motorcycle as soon as possible, you will want to perform
all of the regular maintenance items. That way, you not only know that they
have been done with the highest quality fluids and filters, you have a reliable
place to start with your maintenance log. First I will list the recommended services,
then I will list several tools you should have if you plan on doing your own maintenance.
If you are not planning on doing your own maintenance, have your dealer do it.
If you are buying from a dealer, have him include the services in the deal.
| Maintenance |
| Engine Oil & Filter |
- BMW Oil Filter kit, #
comes with crush
washer and filter cover o-ring - 4
Quarts Oil
NOTE on Oil: In 1998 and 1999 a new oil rating
appeared, known as "SJ." This oil contains altered levels of the minerals
that protect against wear, and new types of friction and wear reducers. BMW does
NOT recommend this new type of oil be used in its motorcycles and (of course)
recommends you buy oil directly from your dealer. The jury is still out on whether,
like No. 10 as spline lube, many riders will choose to ignore BMW. That said,
while rediculously expensive, the BMW oil is apparently quite good. For more information,
please see the very detailed
Oil Analysis on the IBMWR pages. | | Notes:
BMW Engines take a long time to break in, and switching to synthetic before the
engine has broken in can extend the time it takes the engine to break in. Usually
people wait until at least 20,000 miles before switching from Din Oil to Synthetic.
Among Dino oils, Castrol GTX has been highly recommended but any good oil will
do. | | Transmission
Oil | - 1
Quart Mobil-1 Synthetic Gear Oil
- 2
Crush Washers, 1 for fill plug, 1 for drain plug
- Piece
of cardboard
| | While
any synthetic gear oil will do, Mobil-1 consistently gets high recommendations.
There is no break-in for the transmission and synthetic gear oil has immediate
positive results. The cardboard is needed to keep the oil flow off the centerstand,
I usually use the box the oil filter came in. | | Final
Drive Oil | - 1
Quart BMW Dino Gear Oil/Mobil-1 Synthetic Gear Oil
- 2
Crush Washers, 1 for fill plug, 1 for drain plug
|
| BMW apparently redesigned
portions of the final drive, especially the spline material and seal design of
the final drive. Some owners of pre-1991 bikes have reported synthetic oil getting
past the final drive seal and entering the swingarm so the choice of going with
synthetic is entirely up to the individual owner. On post-1991 bikes synthetic
oil is recommended in the final drive. Because so little oil is used in the final
drive (around a quarter of a quart), when using Dino it may make sense to change
the final drive oil every time the engine oil is changed. |
| Fork Oil |
- 1 Quart Fork Oil, 7.5 weight
- Appropriate
Crush Washers/rubber O-Rings (2 needed)
| | Fork
oil is easy to drain, and a task to fill. Most BMW dealers will carry a "horse
syringe with hose" type tool to make getting the oil through the small holes
at the top of the forks an easy task. You choice of Fork oil, both the BMW and
Bel-Ray are highly recommended. Many owners will very the weight of the fork oil
to change the feel of the front end. The crush washers go from small aluminum
for most of the 8-valve K-Bikes to small rubber o-rings for the K11's. Your local
dealer will let you know which is correct for your bike. |
| Coolant |
- 1 Gallon BMW Brand Coolant
- 1
Gallon Distilled water
- 1 Copper Coolant
Crush Washer
| | Coolant
(along with brake fluid) is a critical maintenance item often overlooked. While
this procedure is not as easy as those above as it requires moving the tank back
to access the Coolant fill, it is not difficult. Though is recommended every other
year many do it annually. The BMW coolant is specifically made for the water pump
seals and aluminum block of your K bike. While it is a bit more expensive, one
gallon will last 2 changes. | | Spark
Plugs | - Check
with dealer for correct application for your bike
- Anti-seize
|
| Faulty plugs can
lead to or contribute to poor running. Some BMW's, notably K75's, on rare occasions
can flood the plugs so it is prudent to carry a spare set. |
| Brake Fluid |
- 1 Quart Brake Fluid
- Fluid
Bleeding device of choice
| Brake
fluid should be completely replaced at least once per year. This critical safety
item is often overlooked and failure due to neglect can have catastrophic results.
Castrol, Bel Ray and BMW all make excellent DOT 3/4 brake fluid. Bleeding
devices can range from a simple 3' length of 5/16 clear plastic tubing and a mayonnaise
jar (2-person job) to an intricate and expensive vacuum bleeder (1 experienced
person job. | | Fuel
Filter | | | The
fuel filter is often the culprit with poor-running problems. Should you unfortunately
come across extremely poor gas, or should water repeatedly get in the fuel tank,
the filter can become prematurely clogged. I carry a spare in the tail cowl. |
| Air Filter |
- BMW Air Filter or K&N Air Filter
|
| A neglected air
filter can have the same effect as a clogged fuel filter. This maintenance item
is also one of the more challenging as it requires great dexterity to correctly
fit and seat the new filter. Many people have gone to the K&N filter. Although
it is more expensive, the maintenance interval is doubled and some report an increase
in performance. | | Spline
Lube | - BMW
#10, or lube of your choice (Moly fortified recommended)
|
| Neglect of this
one maintenance item can lead to very expensive failure of the final
drive components. Having your dealer perform this procedure may sound expensive
($150 for many 8-valve K-bikes to $350 or more for some K1100's), but when compared
to the price of chains and sprockets, is quite reasonable. This procedure is best
left to the dealer unless you can find someone to teach you haw to do it. Combined
wisdom from years of analysis have show the current best lubricant to be HondaMoly
- NOT the BMW #2 General Lube Red Stuff.There are several tricks
that make the job go easier. Check with your
local BMW Club. While the recommended maintenance intervals vary from 20k
or yearly for the early K-bikes to 40k or every four years for the K1100's, this
is a critical maintenance item that can prevent costly repairs. On older bikes,
have them go the extra mile in replacing the driveshaft boot if it is at all suspect
(water intrusion into the driveshaft housing is a leading cause of premature wear
and failure.) | Non-Maintenance
Perishable Items There
are items on the bike that will perish over time, these should be closely checked
and replaced if necessary.
| Non-Maintenance
Perishable Items | | Brakes |
- Brake Hoses - These can go bad over time, especially
with poor brake fluid maintenance. Check for swelling and cracking, especially
at the fittings.
- Rotors - Check them
carefully for any cracks or uneven wear. If there are ANY cracks the rotor must
be replaced before riding - period.
- Brake
Master Cylinders& Resevoirs - Check the master cylinders carefully for leaks
and check to make sure that the brake levers return after being squeezed smoothly
with no resistance or notchiness. The resevoirs, especially on the 80's K-bikes,
can grown chalky and opaque over time - this is usually also a sign the plastic
is breaking down and cracks or leaks are soon to follow.
|
| As you will probably
be flushing and bleeding the brake system now is the time to replace any suspect
hoses or flaky resevoirs. Replacing the master cylinders is expensive but easy,
BMW sells rebuild kits that are quite reasonable but involve more work. |
| Coolant System |
- Coolant Sight Hose
These often grow opaque
and brown over time - the part is only about $6 and since you are replacing the
coolant now would be an excellent time to proactively replace it. - Main
Coolant Hose - this is exposed to the elements and should be carefully checked
for cracks, swelling and leaks. It is also cheap ($12) and easy to replace, especially
when replacing the coolant.
- Coolant
Expansion Tank - this can often accumulate crud over time - peek inside with a
flashlight and if needed clean it out.
| | BMW
Coolant is not too much more than the generic yellow stuff you get at AutoZone,
it is worth the extra few dollars. 1 Gallon should last two changes. |
| Switches |
- Ignition - these can get
flakey over time but are simple to remove and clean, see the IBMWR
tech pages.
- The handlebar switches
can also grow flaky over time, especially the red cut-off and green starter switches.
Often a well-placed shot of WD-40 will work, replacement is not inexpensive but
a good opportunity to upgrade to the Euro version with the switchable headlight.
|
| Fork Seals |
- These tend to go bad over time and are not difficult
but time consuming to replace. If you are replacing them, consider adding fork
gators (the ones from /6 and /7 airheads) as they will considerably extend the
life of new seals.
| | Crankcase
Vent Hose | - You
can bet if your bike is over 10 years old and this has not been replaced, now
is the time. The part number for most of the 8v K-Bikes is "11151460480"
- look under the "Engine Block Mounting Parts" plate in the approptiate
parts fiche.
|
| Alternator Drive "Monkey
Nuts" | - If
you notice a destinct rattle at idle coming from the rear of the engine it is
time to replace these. They tend to break down over time causing metal-to-metal
contact in the alternator drive system. They are quite inexpensive to replace
but do take time - most people check these during spline lubes. The part number
is "12311464877", you might want to pick up the $10 Clutch Housing cup that holds
them as well as when there is metal to metal contact the fins in this cup often
chip and break.
| | Bulbs |
- Take the time to remove the bulbs and clean all
the light sockets with contact cleaner. Dirt and corrosion here can cause maddeningly
intermittant faults.
| | Tires |
- Take a close look at the
tires - are there any flat spots, cracks or dry-rot? Check the date
code on the sidewall - it should be a four-digit code signifying the month
and date of the manufacture of the tire. For example, "3405" would be
the 34th week of 2005. The four-digit code may or may not be precedede by two
more letters - these are manufacturer-specific and can be ignored. If it is a
3-digit number your tire was manufactured before 2000 and should be replaced as
it is at least 10 years old.
| Recommended
Tools, Parts & Spares
| Recommended
Tools, Parts & Spares | Clymers
Manual for K Bikes ($30 to $40) | This
manual, or the Haynes, is indispensable to anyone who maintains his or her own
K Bike. This should be your first purchase. Available at most dealers or Amazon.com |
BMW Tool Kit
($125) | This should have
come with your bike. If it did not, you will either need to buy one or recreate
one as it has almost all of the tools needed to do all the regular maintenance
on your bike. | Ratio-Rite
($7.00) | Critical for measuring
fluids. Available at your local dealer, or try Bob's BMW (1-800-BMW-bobs) |
Oil Filter Tool
($5 to $15) | BMW makes one
for $15, though you can find one at the local K-Mart or Wal Mart that comes close
enough. Take a filter with you to make sure you buy the right one. |
Horse Syringe
($5) | Available at your
local dealer, or try Bob's BMW (1-800-BMW-bobs) | Needle-Nose
Pliers ($5) | Needed
to remove the circlips that anchor the tank and seat (you can use the pliers in
the BMW toolkit but needle-nosers make it much easier.) |
| Oil Drain Pan ($6) | Get
the big one, but make sure it is no more than 5" high (clearance...) Wal/K
Mart sells one that is enclosed with a pour spout - I use this one as it is clean
and easy to use. I then use old detergent bottles to ferry the oil to the recycling
place. | 11mm
Box-end Wrench ($3) | This
is not in the toolkit and is needed for the brake bleeder valves. |
| Various Tubes of stuff |
- BMW #10 ($12) BMW Dealer
"It's not
just for Splines!" - use this for lubing everything from centerstand pivots
to the throttle assembly, but leave the spline lubing for the HondaMoly. - Blue
Loctite ($3) Wal-Mart
- Anti-Sieze ($3)
Wal-Mart
- Contact Cleaner ($5) Radio
Shack
- HondaMoly Spline Lube - do NOT
use the BMW #2 Red Stuff!
| | Various
things to have on hand | - Spare
oil fill cap (BMW #11141460191 - $3)
There will come a day when you'll need
it and you will thank your lucky stars you have it. - Assorted
Zip Ties ($3) Wal Mart
- Clear plastic
hobby/tackle box ($3)
Used for holding a bunch of different connectors, organized
and in one place. | Radio
Shack Pocket Digital Multimeter ($25) | From
checking bulbs and fuses to setting the TPS, this tool will easily pay for itself.
Buy one and find some to teach you how to properly use it. |
2.
New Owner FAQ - Q:
Why does my bike make a "whining" sound?
A: The
electric fuel pump in the fuel tank makes a whining noise, often more pronounced
when the tank is empty. Don't worry, it is completely normal. - Q:
Why does my bike sometimes smoke on startup?
A: K-Bikes,
the pre-1990 K75 in particular, will sometimes smoke when parked on the sidestand.
A small amount of oil may seep past the rings into the combustion chamber. Again,
completely normal and not harmful. - Q:
Sometimes my bike backfires when I am throttling down.
A: If
this happens rarely it is completely normal and caused by the fuel shut-off setting
of the fuel injection. If it happens with regularity, you may need to have your
throttle position sensor adjusted. - Q:What
is the proper way to start this bike anyway?
A: Simply hit
the start button, without moving the throttle at all. If it is cold out
or the bike stumbles, open the choke (really a throttle enrichment) to the first
position. On really cold days, open it all the way. - Q:My
bike runs hot but the fan and thermostat are working fine.
A: All
K-Bikes run a bit hot, the K1100RS a particular culprit. There is an aftermarket
fan switch a rider can use to make the fan come on sooner and keep the bike cooler.
Fresh coolant will also help. - Q:
I know I should probably carry some spares and a tire kit with me when I travel.
What do you carry with you?
A: I made it a habit to carry
not only the essentials that any rider should have, but several spares as well.
Here is a list of things you should consider (and yes, all of it will fit in your
tail cowling :): - Always Carry
BMW bulb kit, BMW Tire plug kit, BMW first aid kit, BMW tool roll, and a small
stuff sack of various bits like spare crush washers, zip-ties, duct tape, electric
contact cleaner pencil and blue loctite - Carry
when touring
Spare clutch cable, set of spark plugs, a spare fuel
filter, single photocopied page hidden in tool roll with your driver's license,
registration, insurance card, emergency contact phone numbers. - Q:
So I have heard there are a few clubs I should consider joining?
A:
Clubs are a great source of information, resources and camaraderie (especially
the local ones.) The two major national clubs are the BMW
MOA and the BMW RA. Which to join? I would
recommend spending some time on each's webpage. The MOA is far larger and has
greater resources available to members, while the RA has more of a "smaller
club" feeling. As for local clubs, make sure to join the local club in your
area. That is where you will meet riders that will enthusiastically help you learn
about your bike, show you the local roads, and just generally provide great camaraderie.
Here is a page
on the BMW MOA site that lists most local clubs. - Q:
It looks like I can save some money buying things mail-order, my local dealer's
prices do seem a bit high.
A: Whether to buy mail-order or
from your local dealer is an issue with critics on both sides. If you are not
close to a local dealer or the price differences are significant you may want
to use mainly mail-order. However (there is always a 'however' ;) the reasons
for shopping at your local dealer far outweigh the cost savings from buying mail-order.
Building a good relationship with and giving your business to your local dealer
is critical for several reasons. This doesn't mean you have to go to your dealer
for everything, but showing your face in his door occasionally and buying parts
like filters and tires will do wonders. - Warranties.
Should a part or product you buy fail, it is usually quite difficult to have a
mail-order company quickly repair or replace it. At your local dealer, it is usually
a matter of bringing it in on a Saturday morning. Further, a local dealer that
knows you and wants to keep your business will be a lot more willing to go out
of the way to make sure any BMW warranty work on your bike is quickly and thoroughly
done.
- Insurance Claims. A local
dealer that knows you and values your business will go out of the way to take
in a damaged bike, quickly complete a thorough estimate, then fight with the adjuster
for you. Alternatively, you may find yourself at the end of the line at the service
department and at the mercy of an ignorant adjuster who's sole incentive it to
give you as little as possible.
- "Extras".
Your local dealer that values your business will often offer you extras like loaner
bikes, service scheduling priority, special sales, tech and information clinics,
and special events like bike unveilings.
- More
to come :)
3. Ownership
Tips Alright, so what things
can I learn that others learned the hard way? - ID
your bike and luggage.
Have you seen those silver pencils sold at
the hobby shops? Buy one and use it to write your name and phone number on the
outside of the bag, on the inner lid of your hard cases (just below the lip that
goes on the mounting rail where it will be protected from weather and road debris.)
They sometimes fall off and you wouldn't believe how many people either fail to
have any ID in them at all or have it on the inside where someone must break into
the bag to get at it. Also, hide a photocopy of your important documents and a
$10 bill in the bike (in one of the tool roll pockets works well) - include your
drivers license, insurance information, emergency contact info, etc. - Start
an Owner's Log
Look up your bike's recommended service schedule and
make a maintenance log on which to keep track of what you have done (and what
will need doing ;-). Do NOT go by the one in the owner's manual, your
local dealer should have one for you that is up to date. Also, keep notes of rides
you have taken in a Ride Log - doesn't seem like much now but it will be like
a photo album down the road. Keep these in a folder where you should also keep
all your receipts as well. Here is a good example of one done online. - Install
the Front Fender Extender ($18)
Do it now, unless your bellypan is
already destroyed. - Go by and
Meet Your Local Dealer.
A good relationship with your local dealer
is critical. Start off on a good note by introducing yourself to the dealer and
the parts people while stocking up on the filters and BMW-specific fluids and
lubes you will need to provide a maintenance foundation. Have the wrench give
the bike a quick once-over and thank him or her with a cold six-pack. - Join
Your Local BMW Club
Look online,
or look for an application at your local dealer. Comments?
Please send them to me at comments@verrill.com
THIS
WORK IS Copyright©1996-2009, TED VERRILL
All Rights Reserved. This material
is for personal use only. Republication and redissemination, including posting
to news groups, is expressly prohibited without the prior written consent of Ted
Verrill. |