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K11RS Heated Grip Installation Notes
As always, this is my experience and yours may differ.
Please use common sense and if you feel this is beyond your capabilities please bring it to a shop.

Well, not only did I do the heated grip install on my K75S, I just did it last weekend on my K1100RS. Here are some notes to add to the directions that come with the kit.

Add to your tools:

  • Rough Grit Sandpaper
  • 3' length of string with something (like a spare screw) to tie around one end using a figure-8 knot.
  • VERY small, flat-head screwdriver like the one that comes with some toolkits
  • Dielectric grease (use sparingly!)
  • Leatherman (for cutting off grips, snipping zip-ties, etc.)

Kit Part#: 61312316479

Kit Parts to check for:

  • 2 grips with wires attached
  • various screws (2 to anchor the left, the right depends on whether you have a 16 or 8-valve k)
  • small white "lock block" that the ends of the wires plug into
  • switch
  • pigtail with three connectors (one for the switch, one for the lockblock holding the grip wires, and one either to the power lead or to a second pigtail that goes from the first pigtail to the power lead.)
  • bunch of zip-ties
  • random other stuff.

Note that the K11RS heated grip kit has a handlebar that does not have the nipple anchor for the bar end weights found on the non-heated grip bar, just the regular empty end. The kit comes with two anchors, one for each side, that fit into the bar (#3 above) and serve as the anchor for the stock bar end weights

Others may disagree but this is what has worked for me on my K Bikes (twice ;-) The directions are quite good, though I would add:

  • Disassembly
    1. Remove your seat and slide the tank back, no need to remove it.
    2. Be careful with the brake master cylinder, wrap it in a towel so it doesn't leak on the bike
    3. When you cut off the left grip, sand down the bar so the grip assembly will slide right off.
    4. When feeding the wires through the bar, use the string with a screw attached (with gravity's help) to feed from the center hole out to the bar end. Make sure you remember to go through the grip assemblies first when pulling the wired back through (Doh!)
    5. When you cut zip-ties, leave them in place to make sure you can replace with new ones in the correct place.
    6. The wire connections at the ends of the grips are VERY fragile, when feeding the wires through the bars make SURE not to pull too hard :)
    7. Do NOT cut your finger with the leatherman (DOH!)
  • Wiring
    1. The power lead is WELL HIDDEN under the main harness running up the left hand (clutch) side of the frame. Make sure you look for this little sucker, the lead is only about 1/2" long sprouting from the harness, is often underneath the harness, and terminates in a 2-prong plastic connector.
    2. Use dielectric grease on ALL connections
    3. Use the little screwdriver to *slightly* ease open the ends of the 4 spade slides at the end of the grip wires before inserting them into the block connector. If you don't, they will just pop right out of the block when you try to plug it into the pigtail. They might do this anyway, so you may have to use that little screwdriver to "push" them back into the connected block and onto the spade connectors in the pigtail switch.
    4. Make sure to feed the wiring through the anchors as pictured above (Doh!)
  • Reassembly
    1. Make sure to re-zip tie everything back into place - they give you a bunch to use, use 'em all ;-) Just make sure they are not so tight as to chaff the wiring over time.
    2. Make sure to hook back up the gas lines before flipping on the ignition to make sure they are working properly (doh!)

Enjoy WARM hands :))) Any questions, please let me know!


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